Family Fun and Lessons Learned in Fiji

By Bob McElwee

“Why do you want to go halfway around the world to go kayaking?” my wife asked when I told her I wanted to take my son Matthew on a kayaking trip to Fiji for his 16th birthday.

The way I figured it, there were three reasons. One, we needed to truly get away from it all—somewhere that afforded plenty of time for us to talk, which we don’t normally have at home. Two, we were to be part of a family adventure trip with explorer Richard Bangs, planned especially for parents and kids. Three, I wanted to give my son the experience of a lifetime, which I felt could only come from exposure to another culture in a far off land.

When we arrived on Vita Levu, Fiji’s biggest island—with lush rainforests, rugged mountains, sugary beaches, rustling palms and tropical breezes—it was easy to see we’d made the right choice. We settled in mid-morning at our base, the Pearl South Pacific Resort in Pacific Harbour, and got to know the others on our trip. The kids were all boys, and Matthew quickly struck up new friendships swimming in the hotel pool and ocean surf.

The next morning, churning down the Upper Navua River on a raft, Matthew and I were amazed by the high canyons, waterfalls, flora and fauna; everything looked untouched, pristine. We learned that our guides’ families were the owners of the land and that River Fiji has an exclusive agreement with the landowners whereby the villages receive a set amount per person for the trips. Our guides’ love of their homeland resonated in their voices as they told us about their lives and their families. They explained that the revenue they will receive from a newly approved copper mining project in their area will be good, but it will mean relocating some of the villages.

The next day, Matthew and I powered a tandem kayak a long way out to the sea, paddling through mangrove forests, where we saw mud lobsters, herons, kingfishers and fruit bats. Our guides told us this area is like “the ocean’s nursery,” where many of the inhabitants live until they can head for their permanent home in Bequa Lagoon. While snorkeling in the coral reefs, we were able to see a wide array of tropical fish, and to take a much needed rest before heading back to the white sand beach of our hotel.

One evening I ventured into the local Pacific Harbour village to try the local massage. Like many things in the village it was “open air,” so for a portion of the treatment, visitors going by could watch. Getting a massage from three Fijian women simultaneously was a unique experience, and the village proved to be a great place to get gifts for my family as well.

This next-to-last morning we set out on a two-day river adventure into the Namosi Highlands in individual kayaks, a new challenge after rafting and tandem boats. Our starting point was a small village where we were welcomed by the elders in a kava-drinking ceremony—very relaxing, but not that tasty.

Looking down the rain-fed Luva River, the route did not appear as peaceful as our previous days of river adventure. I was suddenly afraid of turning over and not being able to return to an upright position. But our guide, Bruce, assured me that he would stay near me and, although there were a few anxious moments as we went through narrow chutes in churning white water, I was able to keep my craft stable.

Early in the afternoon we landed outside the village of Nakavika, home of one of our guides. Matthew and I enjoyed the traditional lovo dinner, which was cooked by our hosts from hot stones in the ground. We were then invited to the third-generation chief’s house, where we asked questions about the past and the future. Their tribe’s history includes tales of fierce warriors, but the people were so friendly and welcoming; I have never experienced any place where there was such a sense of calm and peace.

The next morning, as we said goodbye to our new village friends, I asked myself: Why did we go halfway around the world for a kayaking adventure? These islands truly are paradise. And spending a week with my son, along with other parents and their kids from all parts of the United States, will be one of my most cherished memories. But the most important thing we shared was a week with our families where we were guests of the people of Fiji, seeing the world through their eyes. While I was there we forgot about computers, cell phones, deals and deadlines… We were all adventurers on a trip of a lifetime.

Scroll below for a few shots from Fiji!

Bob McElwee is the publisher of Modern Traveler. He has published numerous travel books and is developing a responsible tourism destination called the Green Mill Village in Illinois.